A-a-anybody in here?

'Standard' (30 days + 1 day/move, max 45 days)
This game is being played under Kriegspiel rules. Click the 'info' tab for more information.
Clock started on 2/3/2022
1. d3 d6 2. c3 b6 3. e3 Bb7 4. f3 e6 5. g3 d5 6. b3 f6 7. a4 g5 8. h4 c5 9. Bh3 e5 10. Na3 h6 11. Ne2 d4 12. Nb5 a5 13. Ba3 Qc7 14. Nd6+ Kd8 15. Nf4 h5 16. Nf5 gxh4 17. Ng6 dxc3 18. Qc1 c2 19. Nxh8 Bg7 20. Ne7 Bh6 21. Bc8 h3 22. Nf5 h2 23. Nd6 Bc6 24. Nb7+ Kxc8 25. Nd6+ Kd8 26. Nhf7+ Ke7 27. Nxh6 Nxh6 28. Nb5 Nd7 29. b4 Rh8 30. bxa5 bxa5 31. Nd6 f5 32. Nc4 h4 33. gxh4 f4 34. Nb6 Rg8 35. Na8 Rg1+ 36. Rxg1 hxg1=Q+ 37. Kd2 Qxc1+ 38. Bxc1 Be4 39. h5 c4 40. Ke1 Nc5 41. dxe4 Nxe4 42. fxe4 c3 43. Ba3+ Kd7 44. exf4 exf4 45. Bc1 Ng4 46. h6 Qb7 47. h7 f3 48. h8=Q f2+ 49. Ke2 f1=Q+ 50. Kxf1 Ne3+ 51. Bxe3 c1=Q+ 52. Rxc1 Qb1 53. Nc7 Qxc1+ 54. Bxc1 c2 55. e5 Kc6 56. e6 Kc5 57. e7 Kb4 58. e8=Q Kb3 59. Bd2 c1=Q+ 60. Ke2 Qa1 61. Ne6 Qxa4 62. Nd4+ Ka3 63. Qhe5 Qxd4 64. Qe4 Qxe4+ 65. Qxe4 Kb3 66. Bb4 a4 67. Qd4 a3 68. Bd6 a2 69. Qd5+ Kb2 70. Kd3 a1=Q 71. Kd4 Qh1 72. Ke5 Qh8+ 73. Ke6 Qa8 74. Qe5+ Kb3 75. Be7 Qa7 76. Qf6 Qxe7+ 77. Qxe7 Kc4 78. Kd7 Kd5 79. Qd8 Kd4 80. Kc8+ Ke4 81. Qh8 Kd5 82. Qd8+ Ke4 83. Qc7 Kd4 84. Qb8 Ke4 85. Qb7+ Kd4 86. Qd7+ Ke4 87. Qd8 Ke5 88. Qd7 Ke4 89. Qc7=

(Under Construction, Diagrams to be added)

The name for this game is German for "War Game". You do not see your opponent's forces.

Game Rules

The pieces are initially set up according to standard chess rules.

Opponent's pieces and pawns are hidden. The following detailed visibility rules are in place:

  • all your pieces are visible,
  • all pieces belonging to the opponent are invisible (not displayed in any way),
  • you can not see which pieces you have taken
  • you are told after each move only how many pieces your opponent still has,
  • you are told after each move if you have captured a piece (for example, 'Rx?') However, you can not tell which type of piece you have captured.
  • Your opponent's moves are displayed as question marks (however, they are appended with '+' and '#' for check and mate, and '?xR' indicates you have just lost a rook! ).


Example Kriegspiel board after a few moves. There is no information which black pieces are present on the board and where they are placed.

Piece movement is exactly as in standard chess. However, the first legal move that you attempt to make is final. There is no Submit button! This means that when it is your turn to move, and you pick up a piece and drop it in any (legal!) square, that constitutes your move - no takebacks!

You may try illegal move, in such case the attempt fails and you can try something else.

The game is ended with mate, resignation, stalemate (which is draw), or draw agreement. There is no 50-move rule, or 3-fold repetition (you can't know whether they happened, after all).

Note: if you wish to resign, you must enter a move with your resignation (select Resign and then make any move), since there is no submit button.


Elementary tips

Many players test all possible pawn captures before attempting any other moves. Since a pawn move is different from a capture, this allows the player to attempt these pawn captures before committing to a non-capture move.

Just as in standard chess, you must get out of check as your first priority. However, one clever thing to do when in check is to attempt all possible captures that might remove the check situation, before attempting other ways of eliminating check.

It makes sense to keep all your pieces protected, if one of your pieces disappear, you can recapture.

Game strategy

Slightly rephrased text originally posted by epictetus cincinnatus as comment to this page.

It is very important to understand that the mindset for playing chess well is completely different from the mindset for playing kriegspiel well. Chess played well is predominantly about offense. Kriegspiel played well is predominantly about defense. Chess involves reasoning from complete knowledge. Kriegspiel involves reasoning from incomplete knowledge. In fact, a very useful trait for kriegspiel is paranoia.

All rules below should be treated as a rules of thumb. They have a point, but there are always exceptions dictated by extenuating circumstances.

The value of the pieces is a bit different than in standard chess. I would rate the relative strength of the pieces as follows: queen 7; rook 4; bishop 3; knight 2; pawn 2 (because pawn promotion is very common); and king 3. Vulnerability to attack means the spread in strength of pieces is less.

For as long as possible make sure as many of your pieces as possible are supported by as many of your pieces as possible. In other words, always think in terms of defensive structure when making moves, especially early in the game. Defend everything possible because you don't know where an attack will come from.

Hide you stronger pieces in out of the way places or behind weaker pieces.

Always check for possible pawn captures.

During a series of exchanges always capture with the weakest piece available first and stronger pieces later.

Be cautious in attacks. When deciding to attack a square threaten the square with as many pieces as possible and generally push the attack as long as possible. Attack with your weaker pieces first and your stronger pieces later.

Do not put the opposing king in check gratuitously. That can provide information about your position, but when you do put the king in check that can be a very important piece of information to have.

Be aggressive (but not too aggressive) with your king. Discovering where it can't move can provide a wealth of information as to your opponent's position.

Study your opponent's games before you play them. Noticing early opening tendencies can often give you a leg up in constructing your defense or even allow for an early ambush.

Conversely, try to avoid particular tendencies in your own early game.

Be patient. It's rare that you have to rush into anything and you're more likely than not to simply stumble into trouble.

Example Endgame Study

Contrary to common perceptions, it is not that very difficult to create checkmate late in the endgame with only a king and queen against a bare king.

Divide & Conquer. The first task is to setup the queen in the center. The board will then be divided into four quadrants or corrals (the insurmountable fence represented by shades.)


Now we know the opponent's king is trapped in one of the four quadrants. But where exactly?

Search & Destroy. The second task is to find the opponent's king. The white king has to move and roam from quadrant to quadrant until it meets resistance. When the king can't move into a target square we know the other king is nearby.

Going back to the above diagram, (assuming the lower left quadrant [a1-d3] has already been thoroughly searched and cleared,) now let's say white tried to move 1.Ke2 but was unable to. Resistance, that means the other king is in one of two (2) possible squares (shaded for demonstration.)



Apply the Squeeze. Now tactics comes into play 1.Qe3 [further reducing the quadrant area] ? 2.Ke4 ? 3.Kf4 ? 4.Kg4 ?



Now the other king could be in one of the four (4) different squares (again shaded for demo only).

5.Qd2 [again squeeze!] [not 5.Kg3 right away because there's a real good possibility of stalemate] ?



6.Kg3 ? 7.Qd1# 

Of course there are other ways to skin a cat.

Example games

Note, that while playing, players did not see opponent pieces.

K+R+B vs. King. - Here's a nice endgame tactics . Once surfnsuds has pinpointed black's whereabouts, there's no escape from his accurate and scheming mind. This game also shows how important it is for the king to support the other pieces in the endgame.

A short longshot. - A lucky miniature. Must see.

Against all odds. (I am still smarting over this one! - suds)

Please, add some

Terms and Conditions | Privacy Policy | Copyright © 2002 - 2022

SchemingMind.com | Westhoughton | Bolton | England